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	<title>Comments on: Rust Prevention</title>
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	<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/06/24/rust-prevention/</link>
	<description>Timeless Tools</description>
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		<title>By: Skip J.</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/06/24/rust-prevention/comment-page-1/#comment-68</link>
		<dc:creator>Skip J.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Jul 2008 14:28:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=36#comment-68</guid>
		<description>Well us old tool users won&#039;t pay as much as a conservator. On the other hand, there are a lot of us old tool users who don&#039;t rehab their tools to a like-new finish. I have done - and still do - vinegar, phosphor bluing, electrolysis and am now trying PB Blaster. All of them leave a little residue after cleaning off most of the gunk - just in different ways.

I like the old-tool look for my old tools; I have no desire to strip down to new metal and paint like new.

Since you have shown us how to stiffen your old-time formula with CA glue if we want to - I see no reason to use anything else on my tools - old or new.  But, stiff flooring wax is common as dirt; you can even get it in colors!  I value yours because it offers the soft satin &quot;almost not there&quot; look when wanted.  Thanks again!

I&#039;m completing and finishing my kit plane soon, so that will give me a basis to look at it on a new tool.

Skip</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Well us old tool users won&#8217;t pay as much as a conservator. On the other hand, there are a lot of us old tool users who don&#8217;t rehab their tools to a like-new finish. I have done &#8211; and still do &#8211; vinegar, phosphor bluing, electrolysis and am now trying PB Blaster. All of them leave a little residue after cleaning off most of the gunk &#8211; just in different ways.</p>
<p>I like the old-tool look for my old tools; I have no desire to strip down to new metal and paint like new.</p>
<p>Since you have shown us how to stiffen your old-time formula with CA glue if we want to &#8211; I see no reason to use anything else on my tools &#8211; old or new.  But, stiff flooring wax is common as dirt; you can even get it in colors!  I value yours because it offers the soft satin &#8220;almost not there&#8221; look when wanted.  Thanks again!</p>
<p>I&#8217;m completing and finishing my kit plane soon, so that will give me a basis to look at it on a new tool.</p>
<p>Skip</p>
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		<title>By: BobStrawn</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/06/24/rust-prevention/comment-page-1/#comment-67</link>
		<dc:creator>BobStrawn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Jul 2008 21:36:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=36#comment-67</guid>
		<description>I like this wax on shaves and planes too! I don&#039;t think a conservator would love it much, apart from it&#039;s classic formula.

Conservators are quite used to mixing their own compounds, because they have learned to distrust external sources. While they might use a mix like this to recreate some items made within the last 200 years, they are quite unlikely to want to introduce this compound to an old artifact.  Introducing any drying oil, is likely to be considered ill advised.  Partially because of the added potential for chipping, aging and yellowing.  Mostly because they prefer acid neutral materials.

The history of artifact conservation is quite filled with well intended destruction by conservators.  Often the horrible mistakes made be conservators don&#039;t show up for years.  As a result, conservators tend to be fairly careful about the compounds they use to restore or protect objects.  Rarely do they try to return objects to original function.  That is what they use reproductions for.

Conservators are going side with materials that do the least harm, while protecting the most.  However the environment that they are protecting from is in a dry cabinet or on a dry shelf.

If you treat a saddle that you ride on, the way a conservator does, the saddle will not have the protective ingredients soaking in that would help keep a saddle supple, rot resistant, sweat, rain, grunge and wear resistant.

If however you treat a 500 year old saddle with the stuff you would best use on a riding saddle, you might cause great harm to that saddle.

I love the wax, safflower oil and turpentine mix for it&#039;s look, feel, and it&#039;s preserving and protecting qualities.  But 500 years from now, any curator trying to preserve it, will probably have to compensate for the mix I used.

Till then however, is does have a wonderful look and feel while protecting wood.  It makes a timeless sort of finish, that gives no clue as to the possible age of the item.  I love that quality as well.

Bob</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I like this wax on shaves and planes too! I don&#8217;t think a conservator would love it much, apart from it&#8217;s classic formula.</p>
<p>Conservators are quite used to mixing their own compounds, because they have learned to distrust external sources. While they might use a mix like this to recreate some items made within the last 200 years, they are quite unlikely to want to introduce this compound to an old artifact.  Introducing any drying oil, is likely to be considered ill advised.  Partially because of the added potential for chipping, aging and yellowing.  Mostly because they prefer acid neutral materials.</p>
<p>The history of artifact conservation is quite filled with well intended destruction by conservators.  Often the horrible mistakes made be conservators don&#8217;t show up for years.  As a result, conservators tend to be fairly careful about the compounds they use to restore or protect objects.  Rarely do they try to return objects to original function.  That is what they use reproductions for.</p>
<p>Conservators are going side with materials that do the least harm, while protecting the most.  However the environment that they are protecting from is in a dry cabinet or on a dry shelf.</p>
<p>If you treat a saddle that you ride on, the way a conservator does, the saddle will not have the protective ingredients soaking in that would help keep a saddle supple, rot resistant, sweat, rain, grunge and wear resistant.</p>
<p>If however you treat a 500 year old saddle with the stuff you would best use on a riding saddle, you might cause great harm to that saddle.</p>
<p>I love the wax, safflower oil and turpentine mix for it&#8217;s look, feel, and it&#8217;s preserving and protecting qualities.  But 500 years from now, any curator trying to preserve it, will probably have to compensate for the mix I used.</p>
<p>Till then however, is does have a wonderful look and feel while protecting wood.  It makes a timeless sort of finish, that gives no clue as to the possible age of the item.  I love that quality as well.</p>
<p>Bob</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Skip J.</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/06/24/rust-prevention/comment-page-1/#comment-66</link>
		<dc:creator>Skip J.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Jul 2008 19:01:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=36#comment-66</guid>
		<description>Moving on...  I finished rehabbing a #52 shave over the weekend and I needed to wax it.  Normally I&#039;d use Johnson&#039;s to get a hard coat on a tool - wood or metal.  But I had left just a bit of the &quot;patina&quot; on this one and didn&#039;t clean it all the way down to new grey metal.  I thought maybe a more soaked-in softer satin look would retain that image while protecting it during use.  Thinking that, I took some of your special handmade wax - which is a bit softer - and rubbed it in.  Let it &quot;cure&quot; overnite and polished it in the morning.  It looks great!  Maybe the expert tool conservators for museums would pay big bucks for that capability???

Skip</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Moving on&#8230;  I finished rehabbing a #52 shave over the weekend and I needed to wax it.  Normally I&#8217;d use Johnson&#8217;s to get a hard coat on a tool &#8211; wood or metal.  But I had left just a bit of the &#8220;patina&#8221; on this one and didn&#8217;t clean it all the way down to new grey metal.  I thought maybe a more soaked-in softer satin look would retain that image while protecting it during use.  Thinking that, I took some of your special handmade wax &#8211; which is a bit softer &#8211; and rubbed it in.  Let it &#8220;cure&#8221; overnite and polished it in the morning.  It looks great!  Maybe the expert tool conservators for museums would pay big bucks for that capability???</p>
<p>Skip</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Skip J.</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/06/24/rust-prevention/comment-page-1/#comment-65</link>
		<dc:creator>Skip J.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:28:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=36#comment-65</guid>
		<description>I use WD-40 by the gallon as a cleaner,,, I just feel naked without a fresh gallon on-hand.  Last week I mowed shortly after a rain and used it to clean the wet mower down after it cooled off.  But to be truthful - I use a whole lot more Murphy&#039;s for cleaning than I do WD-40.  It cleans wood and metal and leather like a champ.  Nobody ever talks about Murphy&#039;s on the forums....

Skip</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I use WD-40 by the gallon as a cleaner,,, I just feel naked without a fresh gallon on-hand.  Last week I mowed shortly after a rain and used it to clean the wet mower down after it cooled off.  But to be truthful &#8211; I use a whole lot more Murphy&#8217;s for cleaning than I do WD-40.  It cleans wood and metal and leather like a champ.  Nobody ever talks about Murphy&#8217;s on the forums&#8230;.</p>
<p>Skip</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: BobStrawn</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/06/24/rust-prevention/comment-page-1/#comment-64</link>
		<dc:creator>BobStrawn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 19:38:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=36#comment-64</guid>
		<description>WD 40 is still a good water remover, grunge cleaner and part loosener. Every 16 oz of WD-40 should come with 64 ounces of cleaning solvent to remove the WD-40 after it is used, so that a good protective lubricant can be put on.  I try to use WD-40 rarely, since it inevitably means more volatile petrochemical waste.  Sometimes to save a machine however I need the stuff.  Waste to prevent waste.

Bob</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>WD 40 is still a good water remover, grunge cleaner and part loosener. Every 16 oz of WD-40 should come with 64 ounces of cleaning solvent to remove the WD-40 after it is used, so that a good protective lubricant can be put on.  I try to use WD-40 rarely, since it inevitably means more volatile petrochemical waste.  Sometimes to save a machine however I need the stuff.  Waste to prevent waste.</p>
<p>Bob</p>
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