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	<title>Comments on: Using a Kanaban and a 1-2-3 Block to tune a plane</title>
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	<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/08/27/using-a-kanaban-and-a-1-2-3-block/</link>
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		<title>By: BobStrawn</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/08/27/using-a-kanaban-and-a-1-2-3-block/comment-page-1/#comment-168</link>
		<dc:creator>BobStrawn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 Oct 2009 19:24:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=259#comment-168</guid>
		<description>Lapidary supplies are good sources for a lot of different grits. http://therockshed.com/grit.html, http://www.dadsrockshop.com/abrasives.html are a few that I turned up with a web search.
An important note on grits.  Pressure destroys grit faster.  Often a lighter pressure will slow you down in the short run, but the retention of grit will speed you up over the long run.
There are two types of abrasive diamond crystals normally sold.   The most common one sold  these days is the friable diamond grit.  It fragments easily.  As a result it gives constant sharp edges, but it reduces in size quickly.  Pressure will speed this process.  The other crystal is more like a diamond ring.  Not as sharp generally, it dulls instead of breaking.  It still processes quickly, and it still lasts a very long time.   It still dulls eventually.  Here is a bit more data on this sort of thing.  http://battlering.com/overkillsharp.html

I prefer a good aluminum oxide to silicon dioxide grit for most things, it is more economical.   Another good place to search for grits would be blast media used for sand blasting.

Bob</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Lapidary supplies are good sources for a lot of different grits. <a href="http://therockshed.com/grit.html" rel="nofollow">http://therockshed.com/grit.html</a>, <a href="http://www.dadsrockshop.com/abrasives.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.dadsrockshop.com/abrasives.html</a> are a few that I turned up with a web search.<br />
An important note on grits.  Pressure destroys grit faster.  Often a lighter pressure will slow you down in the short run, but the retention of grit will speed you up over the long run.<br />
There are two types of abrasive diamond crystals normally sold.   The most common one sold  these days is the friable diamond grit.  It fragments easily.  As a result it gives constant sharp edges, but it reduces in size quickly.  Pressure will speed this process.  The other crystal is more like a diamond ring.  Not as sharp generally, it dulls instead of breaking.  It still processes quickly, and it still lasts a very long time.   It still dulls eventually.  Here is a bit more data on this sort of thing.  <a href="http://battlering.com/overkillsharp.html" rel="nofollow">http://battlering.com/overkillsharp.html</a></p>
<p>I prefer a good aluminum oxide to silicon dioxide grit for most things, it is more economical.   Another good place to search for grits would be blast media used for sand blasting.</p>
<p>Bob</p>
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		<title>By: incanopy</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/08/27/using-a-kanaban-and-a-1-2-3-block/comment-page-1/#comment-169</link>
		<dc:creator>incanopy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 Oct 2009 12:57:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=259#comment-169</guid>
		<description>Where do you get your AlOX 80 grit powder from?

I ask because I haven&#039;t had great luck doing my course blade shaping using 325 micron diamond paste on a steel kannaban.  The diamond does cut very quickly at first, but it also goes away fairly quickly, even if I rub the diamond into the kannaban using the flat side of an old O1 blade.  That makes the process not cost-effective.

In any event, I&#039;m in the hunt for a cheaper abrasive powder to try for course grinding.  The classic choice is silicon carbide, but since it breaks down so quickly, I would like to try AlOx as well.

Thanks!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Where do you get your AlOX 80 grit powder from?</p>
<p>I ask because I haven&#8217;t had great luck doing my course blade shaping using 325 micron diamond paste on a steel kannaban.  The diamond does cut very quickly at first, but it also goes away fairly quickly, even if I rub the diamond into the kannaban using the flat side of an old O1 blade.  That makes the process not cost-effective.</p>
<p>In any event, I&#8217;m in the hunt for a cheaper abrasive powder to try for course grinding.  The classic choice is silicon carbide, but since it breaks down so quickly, I would like to try AlOx as well.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
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		<title>By: Skip J.</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/08/27/using-a-kanaban-and-a-1-2-3-block/comment-page-1/#comment-167</link>
		<dc:creator>Skip J.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Aug 2008 18:47:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=259#comment-167</guid>
		<description>Quote:&quot;Multiple large plates with different diamond grits might be nice someday. Bob&quot;

Oh my,..... now you&#039;re talking bigger plates than DMT&#039;s for large planes - and a larger selection of grit sizes, down to very small grit - that&#039;ll last a long, long time - for considerably less money.  You mite need to work up a business plan on this one....  well, it had to happen someday I guess...  congrats!

Skip</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Quote:&#8221;Multiple large plates with different diamond grits might be nice someday. Bob&#8221;</p>
<p>Oh my,&#8230;.. now you&#8217;re talking bigger plates than DMT&#8217;s for large planes &#8211; and a larger selection of grit sizes, down to very small grit &#8211; that&#8217;ll last a long, long time &#8211; for considerably less money.  You mite need to work up a business plan on this one&#8230;.  well, it had to happen someday I guess&#8230;  congrats!</p>
<p>Skip</p>
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		<title>By: BobStrawn</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/08/27/using-a-kanaban-and-a-1-2-3-block/comment-page-1/#comment-166</link>
		<dc:creator>BobStrawn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Aug 2008 16:45:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=259#comment-166</guid>
		<description>Cast iron griddles and pans can be flipped over and ground flat to do a great job.  However the grinding takes an amazing amount of time.

I just bought the precision ground O1 plates from Victor Machine so that I could skip the process.

Multiple large plates with different diamond grits might be nice someday.

Bob</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Cast iron griddles and pans can be flipped over and ground flat to do a great job.  However the grinding takes an amazing amount of time.</p>
<p>I just bought the precision ground O1 plates from Victor Machine so that I could skip the process.</p>
<p>Multiple large plates with different diamond grits might be nice someday.</p>
<p>Bob</p>
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		<title>By: Skip J.</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/08/27/using-a-kanaban-and-a-1-2-3-block/comment-page-1/#comment-165</link>
		<dc:creator>Skip J.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Aug 2008 16:08:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=259#comment-165</guid>
		<description>Thanks Bob;

You got that right.  Mine is just right for blades though.

So this is the same grit lapping idea, but on a larger scale and not diamond &quot;intensive&quot;.  I have some large soft steel plate I could cut up, but it&#039;s not quite flat....  I will say scary sharp sure does roll loose grit under a metal plane sole and cause problems; it makes rehabbing a woodie a lot more attractive than metal planes....

Skip</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks Bob;</p>
<p>You got that right.  Mine is just right for blades though.</p>
<p>So this is the same grit lapping idea, but on a larger scale and not diamond &#8220;intensive&#8221;.  I have some large soft steel plate I could cut up, but it&#8217;s not quite flat&#8230;.  I will say scary sharp sure does roll loose grit under a metal plane sole and cause problems; it makes rehabbing a woodie a lot more attractive than metal planes&#8230;.</p>
<p>Skip</p>
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