Comments on: Grizzly Japanese Chisels and Gouges, Part 5 http://toolmakingart.com/2009/01/30/grizzly-japanese-chisels-and-gouges-part-5/ Timeless Tools Sat, 19 May 2012 20:07:31 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.2 By: Bob Strawn http://toolmakingart.com/2009/01/30/grizzly-japanese-chisels-and-gouges-part-5/comment-page-1/#comment-613 Bob Strawn Mon, 01 Feb 2010 04:55:08 +0000 http://toolmakingart.com/?p=787#comment-613 I detailed the basic method <a href="http://toolmakingart.com/2008/05/28/setting-japanese-chisel-hoops/" rel="nofollow">here,</a> If the wood is not too large, compressing the wood with an anvil edge and hammer will do. Otherwise either sanding down a touch or shaving a bit off with a chisel will do. To shave with the chisel, I mark what I don't want to cut with electricians tape, and cut a line right at the tape line. Then I shave off wood. Since I don't want to split any of the actual grip, all the cutting is done toward the back of the chisel from the tape line. To smooth and shape them, I cheated quite a bit and used several methods, depending on what seemed best at the time. I taped the metal and the regions I did not want to alter. If the tape became damaged, I replaced it immediately. One method was to tape the end with the ring removed, and put it in a lathe or drill chuck. Then with it spinning slowly I would scrape or sand it to fit. Another method was to sand it free hand. If there was a lot of meat to remove, I pounded the sharp end into a section of wood. Then I put the base in a lathe chuck and then brought the tail stock on the lathe in to match with the wood. This way I could get the tool turning concentrically for turning. Another method that works really well is to get a sand paper roll, like a plumber uses. Then lock the blade of the chisel in a vise and use the sandpaper like you would buff a shoe. This can do very fast work. Bob I detailed the basic method here, If the wood is not too large, compressing the wood with an anvil edge and hammer will do. Otherwise either sanding down a touch or shaving a bit off with a chisel will do. To shave with the chisel, I mark what I don’t want to cut with electricians tape, and cut a line right at the tape line. Then I shave off wood. Since I don’t want to split any of the actual grip, all the cutting is done toward the back of the chisel from the tape line.

To smooth and shape them, I cheated quite a bit and used several methods, depending on what seemed best at the time. I taped the metal and the regions I did not want to alter. If the tape became damaged, I replaced it immediately. One method was to tape the end with the ring removed, and put it in a lathe or drill chuck. Then with it spinning slowly I would scrape or sand it to fit. Another method was to sand it free hand. If there was a lot of meat to remove, I pounded the sharp end into a section of wood. Then I put the base in a lathe chuck and then brought the tail stock on the lathe in to match with the wood. This way I could get the tool turning concentrically for turning.

Another method that works really well is to get a sand paper roll, like a plumber uses. Then lock the blade of the chisel in a vise and use the sandpaper like you would buff a shoe. This can do very fast work.

Bob

]]> By: Anchul Axelrod http://toolmakingart.com/2009/01/30/grizzly-japanese-chisels-and-gouges-part-5/comment-page-1/#comment-612 Anchul Axelrod Mon, 01 Feb 2010 01:39:54 +0000 http://toolmakingart.com/?p=787#comment-612 Great post! Thank you for making it. I just received my Grizzly set of 10 chisels. Used a hot plate to get the hoops off. Could you share with me how you shaped them please? Great post! Thank you for making it. I just received my Grizzly set of 10 chisels. Used a hot plate to get the hoops off. Could you share with me how you shaped them please?

]]> By: patrick anderson http://toolmakingart.com/2009/01/30/grizzly-japanese-chisels-and-gouges-part-5/comment-page-1/#comment-344 patrick anderson Sun, 06 Dec 2009 02:11:24 +0000 http://toolmakingart.com/?p=787#comment-344 Thanks for the info. I'll wipe them down with some camelia oil after use. Thanks for the info. I’ll wipe them down with some camelia oil after use.

]]> By: BobStrawn http://toolmakingart.com/2009/01/30/grizzly-japanese-chisels-and-gouges-part-5/comment-page-1/#comment-345 BobStrawn Sun, 06 Dec 2009 00:19:19 +0000 http://toolmakingart.com/?p=787#comment-345 They are pretty nice after they are worked over. The finest ones may not be up to the task, although the second one I got is fine and Grizzly does support their products. They hold and edge well, and do the job. They are fairly rust prone, so try to store them well. Bob They are pretty nice after they are worked over. The finest ones may not be up to the task, although the second one I got is fine and Grizzly does support their products. They hold and edge well, and do the job. They are fairly rust prone, so try to store them well.

Bob

]]> By: patrick anderson http://toolmakingart.com/2009/01/30/grizzly-japanese-chisels-and-gouges-part-5/comment-page-1/#comment-346 patrick anderson Sat, 05 Dec 2009 18:43:33 +0000 http://toolmakingart.com/?p=787#comment-346 I'm glad to hear good things about the grizzly chisels as I was considering buying the set to try out. Have you had any more issues with them? I’m glad to hear good things about the grizzly chisels as I was considering buying the set to try out.

Have you had any more issues with them?

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