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	<title>Toolmaking Art &#187; Toxins</title>
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	<description>Timeless Tools</description>
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		<title>No Glue, No Glue, What to do!</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2011/02/11/no-glue-no-glue-what-to-do/</link>
		<comments>http://toolmakingart.com/2011/02/11/no-glue-no-glue-what-to-do/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Feb 2011 23:00:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bob Strawn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tool Making]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Toxins]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Woodworking]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=1448</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>I need some glue, lots of glue, epoxy preferably.  I have looked around, I have lots of glue, a couple of boxes of glue, all of them are now  strange hazardous waste.   They are all well over a year old.  Glues, most glues are dead in a year.   Some may go a few more [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I need some glue, lots of glue, epoxy preferably.  I have looked around, I have lots of glue, a couple of boxes of glue, all of them are now  strange hazardous waste.   They are all well over a year old.  Glues, most glues are dead in a year.   Some may go a few more years, but they weaken considerably as they age.</p>
<p>So the glues I have, can sort of bond things, but they won&#8217;t set or hold or whatever.  So I look around the stores, and cannot find anything with a date showing.  If I can find it reasonably fresh at the store,  it is one of those fine glues that you cannot remove or repair or both.     Most woodworking glues theses days are best at making sure no glue can grip in case of repair needs.  That makes it worthless unless I want a glue proof paint.  Not having a date showing seems downright criminal to me.  They can brag all day how strong they are, but without a date, I don&#8217;t know if I need to use it all this week, or if I should have bought it a week ago and used it then.  Give me a use before date, or all the  glue claims are worthless.   They might as well be selling snake oil.  I have yet to see the placebo effect work with glue.</p>
<p>I have had to abandon some rather nice and expensive projects due to poor glue or old glue that made bad joints while preventing further work.  So now I don&#8217;t buy glue that I don&#8217;t know the expiration date on.  I especially don&#8217;t buy glue that has dust on the package or is bought bulk by the distributor and warehoused until it is sent to the store.    Since most glues are at half or less strength after 1 year of sitting there, that precludes my buying glue from the big name stores.   Is there a warning on the glue that mentions shelf life?   These glue manufacturers, even the ones that make half decent glue, would have a clear expiration date if they were trying to provide me with a trustworthy product.</p>
<p>If I account hours and expenses involved in obtaining wood, curing the wood and shaping the wood, that was ruined by bad glue used within a week of purchase,  these glue manufacturers, who know just how lame this is,  have cost me quite a bit.    Now, I know all about glue failure, and I am happy to provide that education to others.  The first lesson is to stop buying faith based glue.  If it expires, and does not have an expiration date, clearly on the bottle, then it is probably a meld of toxic compounds with no evidence of decent effect.</p>
<p>So I like four glues now,  Cyanoacrylate,  Barge Cement,   Hide Glue, and Ecopoxy.</p>
<p>Cyanoacrylate instant adhesive is cool stuff and it makes a great  finish.  cyanoacrylate  is rated for 1-2 years, but if you put it in the  freezer, it may have an unlimited shelf life.  Sharp impact can  fracture the bond yet sometimes it will not come loose no matter what  you do.  The thinner for cyanocrylate is acetone.  Acetone is one of those see a  physician quick, and pray the mutation is benign or the organ killed was  unimportant,  sort of poisons.  Not the sort of thing I want to soak my  wood in, thank you, very, very much.  So I use super glue, but I don&#8217;t  entirely trust it except as a sort of varnish.   If I need a leather glue for  a project that will not flex, then it is a pretty nice glue.  Because it usually does not have an expiration date on it, I have no idea if the stuff can be used as a regular glue reliably.    I do know that even the old stuff makes a good finish and will bond my finger together quite well.  Some day I need to get some that I know is still good and try it out.   It may be that the rare and random occasion of the stuff being really good, happened because I was accidentally sold some that had not expired.</p>
<p>Barge Cement is great, but it has all sorts of VOC issues.  Not the safest to handle or breath when gluing.  With some thinner, which is toluene, I have been able to thin and use it for years and years.  If however you are brave enough to read the MSDS for toluene,  you will read a dry rendition of total fear.   So I still use Barge Cement on a clear windy day, outside, with surgical gloves on, when I need something that can glue shoe soles or similar projects.    I have some, but I don&#8217;t consider it my go to glue.  I do leatherwork, so Barge is a must have but  Barge is of limited use to me.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&amp;Store_Code=toolshop&amp;Product_Code=MS-HIDEGL.XX&amp;Category_Code=&amp;Search=hide%20glue" target="_blank">Hide glue</a> is great, sadly I am out of it.  Perhaps because it is great.  It is not weather proof,  but it is strong and draws in when it drys.  It can also be removed with steam, so I love the stuff.    It is not great for mounting steel bits into tool handles.   it is not great for  stuff that may get moisture.   For so much else though, it rules.   You end up spending a lot more getting a pot for using it, than you will on glue, unless you do a lot of veneering.  Hide glue does take a bit of planning and warm up, but it has the unique quality of curing to full strength in a minute or so.  This means you can assemble and glue, without waiting on parts to cure.  Once you get past the initial inconvenience of needed time and a pot to use it, it is the most convenient of glues.</p>
<p>Then there is my favorite glue of them all. <a href="http://www.ecopoxysystems.com/products.html" target="_blank"> Ecopoxy!</a> I have put it to one of the <a href="http://toolmakingart.com/2010/03/20/ecopoxy-update/" target="_blank">worst tests</a> that I could come up with, gluing a broken chair leg, right where the wheel connects.    This has held perfectly now  for about a year.  The chair just had a different leg break.     So I now am totally in love with the stuff and it has passed a test that I consider fairly unreasonable.  I now need more of it so I can fix the chair!</p>
<p>I have already <a href="http://toolmakingart.com/2009/12/04/food-safe-glue/" target="_blank">praised it as a glue</a>,  and they now sell a sampler size.  That makes it a bit more accessible for the first time user to try out.   Ecopoxy  is tough, water proof, rated as food safe, after it has cured and it does not stink.   It also, has an unlimited shelf life.   For glues, you can translate &#8220;unlimited shelf life,&#8221; to &#8220;worth having on your shelf.&#8221;  These words mean the same thing.</p>
<p>I needs my ecopoxy.</p>
<p>Bob</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Food Safe Glue</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2009/12/04/food-safe-glue/</link>
		<comments>http://toolmakingart.com/2009/12/04/food-safe-glue/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 05 Dec 2009 00:55:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bob Strawn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Chemistry]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Environment]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Recipes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Toxins]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Woodworking]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=1265</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>My next glue purchase is going to be a gallon of Ecopoxy.</p> <p>I have been looking for a waterproof, food safe glue for quite a while.    A lot of people advertise that their products are made with food safe glue, and a lot of people say that this or that glue is food safe, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My next glue purchase is going to be a gallon of <a title="Ecopoxy Product Page" href="http://www.ecopoxysystems.com/products.html" target="_blank">Ecopoxy.</a></p>
<p>I have been looking for a waterproof, food safe glue for quite a while.    A lot of people advertise that their products are made with food safe glue, and a lot of people say that this or that glue is food safe, but when you research the final results, they don&#8217;t pan out.    Some will talk about the safety of the product, but their web sites and literature don&#8217;t make the same claims.     Just because a salesman has made  a claim, and people believed  it and repeated  it, does not make it true.   The only conclusive evidence of  food safe glue, that I have found up until now is Tightbond III.  It is rated for indirect contact with food.  As a result a lot of people prefer it for making cutting boards.</p>
<p><a title="Ecopoxy main page" href="http://www.ecopoxysystems.com/" target="_blank">Ecopoxy</a> is currently not being marketed as a glue, but I think this will be just the thing.   I have not tested it as a glue, but from the specs, it looks like it will be ideal.  No glue is perfect, but this looks like a dream glue.</p>
<p>It has an unlimited shelf life.  (heat may damage the resin)   This by itself is amazing.  An unlimited shelf  life means you don&#8217;t have to replace it every year.  You don&#8217;t have to worry that the glue you bought may already be three months old and only half as strong as it was.  This is a big advantage.   This puts it in the category with hide glue for longevity.</p>
<p>Probably using Knox Gelatin as hide glue is the safest glue you can get, but apart from peanut allergies possibly causing a problem while the glue is curing, or the BPA issue rearing it&#8217;s ugly head, this is as safe as any glue I have seen.  It is rated for holding potable water, so food contact is not an issue.   From the specifications I have read, I would trust this more than the plastic bottles or metal cans we drink from regularly.   The metal cans are usually lined with this sort of epoxy anyway, and this looks to be the best of them.</p>
<p>The other advantages are reduced odor, VOC and environmental  issues.   Gluing up a boat in your garage would be quite a bit safer with this epoxy.  This is made from soybeans, beans and peanuts, so the carbon footprint is much lower than most glues.    The one downside is the curing time.  It is typical for a glue to be fully set either overnight or a full day later.  This will reach full strength in three to five days so for a rush job or impatient craftsman, this will not be ideal.    A lot of the toxicity of finishes and glues comes from the materials used to speed the setting time, so I am not about to complain about the speed.  I would much rather have safe materials.</p>
<p>Here are a few thoughts on usage.  Cutting blocks come to mind immediately, but this product may allow for some really neat things to be made.  Imagine  taking 6 board feet of oak, and making a stackable one foot oak cube that holds  five and a half gallons for brewing wine in.    Or imagine gluing together three sections like the picture below and making a wooden flask.  It would look really nice with a square cork.  There is no reason at all that this flask is not triangular or round or whatever.</p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1268" title="Flask of Wood" src="http://toolmakingart.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/Flask-of-Wood.jpg" alt="Flask of Wood" width="470" height="300" /></p>
<p>One neat application they list is using it with sand to make a non slip surface.   A food safe, marine grade epoxy that is tough enough to use to as a floor coating sounds pretty wonderful to me.  I want to make a cedar hot tub with it to put next to a small cedar swimming pool.  Put that on a cedar deck, with a non-slip walking path and you have a pretty wonderful back yard.   If you masked off a pathway, you could make a neat non slip path.   This path could be intact or done as if stepping stones.    I am sure you could do this with a lot of other epoxies, but I would feel much better soaking in a hot tub that was food safe!</p>
<p>I cannot give any advice based on personal use yet, but as soon as I can I will do an update on this.  I have enough of a sample to do some quick testing, so I will be reporting on this as I go.      In any case, this epoxy looks like a game changer.</p>
<p>Bob</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Is a Copy of a Copy a Crime?</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2009/02/18/is-a-copy-of-a-copy-a-crime/</link>
		<comments>http://toolmakingart.com/2009/02/18/is-a-copy-of-a-copy-a-crime/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 18 Feb 2009 13:00:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bob Strawn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hand Tools]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Injustice]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Speculation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[TEOTWAWKI]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tools]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Toxins]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=875</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>I have waded through a lot of discussions about copies being made of other tool designs. It is quite interesting to see where people stand. It seems that there are several issues that divide how we think about these things. The variations on ethic make this a pretty heated issue. Personally I like this. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have waded through a lot of discussions about copies being made of other tool designs.   It is quite interesting to see where people stand.   It seems that there are several issues that divide how we think about these things.     The variations on ethic make this a pretty heated issue.  Personally I like this.  I think societies need to discuss ethics every now and then.</p>
<p>I have a lot of respect for a good copy.   <a href="http://www.planemaker.com/" target="_blank">Clark and Willams</a> makes reproductions and I hold them in the highest regard.  The company that some people are defending, <a href="http://www.lie-nielsen.com/" target="_blank">Lie-Nielsen</a>,  makes an upgraded copy of what a lot of people consider the best mass produced planes.    I like this too.   What is really neat here, is that a upscale, high dollar product, that has been maintained with quality engineering and quality support has loyal supporters, despite being quite expensive.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=21170" target="_blank">WoodCraft</a>, is the one with the copy of a copy.  It sells for a bit less and looks pretty nice.   Woodcraft has given me very good support in the past, so as far as that goes, they might come close to <a href="http://www.lie-nielsen.com/" target="_blank">Lie-Nielsen</a> There are folk supporting them in their decisions as well.</p>
<p>I have no objection to competition either.  I like the idea of companies competing with each other to provide me with the best price on the best quality goods.  The competition between<a href="http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&amp;p=48940&amp;cat=1,41182" target="_blank"> Lee Valley</a> and <a href="http://www.lie-nielsen.com/" target="_blank">Lie-Nielsen</a> has been very good for the woodworking community.    I suspect it has also been good for both of those companies.   People respect them around the world.  The competition is between innovation and refining old patterns.  I like the results.</p>
<p>One of the big issues is the China thing.   A lot of folk are developing a real hatred of things from China or India.  Personally I would rather support the company that takes care of their employees.  I would much rather buy from Canada that China for the same reason that I would rather buy food from a share-cropper than a slave owner.   I think that people that share control, profit and future are more likely to make caring decisions.  People who exploit people are much more likely to put toxic stuff in baby formula.  As we turn our face away from the suffering of others, we practice the same skills that endanger our world.</p>
<p>I would rather buy local, but my real priority is to buy ethical.  I would rather not reward selfishness.  Business should be win-win.  I try to consider trade practice, environment and business ethics, when I buy.  I don&#8217;t want to give more money and power to a person or company that does not care about people.  Even people who they will never meet, of different faiths, colors and languages.</p>
<p>I approve of WoodCrafts effort to offer quality products at lower prices,  but  I would rather not have products made by underpaid labor drive a quality company like Lie-Nielson out of business.</p>
<p>Given my choice, I prefer to buy from a person.   A good a product can be made by a woodworker, out of wood and steel and bronze.   It just takes a bit of time and care.</p>
<p>Bob</p>
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		<item>
		<title>The Slope, and &#039;Needing&#039; new Tools.</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2009/01/14/the-slope-and-needing-new-tools/</link>
		<comments>http://toolmakingart.com/2009/01/14/the-slope-and-needing-new-tools/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 14 Jan 2009 13:00:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bob Strawn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tool Box]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Toxins]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Woodworking]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=708</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Hand tool users online, often talk about the slope.   It is a reference to the constant pressing need for new tools.  It is really a fairly honest thing.</p> <p>To start out making the simplest projects out of wood, you need to be able to cut wood and stick it together.   A saw, hammer [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hand tool users online, often talk about the slope.   It is a reference to the constant pressing need for new tools.  It is really a fairly honest thing.</p>
<p>To start out making the simplest projects out of wood, you need to be able to cut wood and stick it together.   A saw, hammer or screwdriver, and some glue will get you started.   If you want to have smooth, splinter free wood most folk go for sandpaper.  They should get a hand  scraper and burnisher the same day they buy the sandpaper, but that requires a bit more knowledge.</p>
<p>As you add embellishments to your work, often a new tool will allow you to do the work better, in other words faster and prettier.</p>
<p>There is a point you reach, where the tools you need are fairly obscure or might not even exist commercially.  This is not that historically rare.  Custom tools at one time were the rule and not the exception.</p>
<p>Right now, for a few projects I am working on, I need a left handed skew plane.  Normally this would not be a big issue since most people do their work in square.  Since I am trying to do some fine work at 60 degree and 30 degree angles, there are times when I actually need, not just want, a left handed skew plane.   Every other angled rabbet needs this tool.  Without it you are forced to plane into the grain.   This is the simple result of expanding your range of work.</p>
<p>I also want to make several sliding dovetails, and some nice grooves in wood for drawers to slide in.  Since I am doing it at odd angles, the standard range of planes will not quite do.  So I am designing a plow plane just for this task.  The prototype has me optomistic.</p>
<p>As far as the tight set of tools that a woodworker might want in his travel tool box, these two might even make the cut.  That makes them pretty important, by my standards.</p>
<p>Bob</p>
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		<title>Tobacco is pretty!</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/07/11/tobacco-is-pretty/</link>
		<comments>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/07/11/tobacco-is-pretty/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Jul 2008 13:00:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bob Strawn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Chemistry]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Toxins]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=64</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>A lot of gardeners use tobacco as an organic pesticide.  I decided at one time to grow some, so that I would not chance introducing tobacco mosaic virus to my tomatoes and peppers.  Since then have found the only pesticide I like to use is homemade soap.</p> <p>So now I grow tobacco for my [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A lot of gardeners use tobacco as an organic pesticide.  I decided at one time to grow some, so that I would not chance introducing tobacco mosaic virus to my tomatoes and peppers.  Since then have found the only pesticide I like to use is homemade soap.</p>
<p>So now I grow tobacco for my pipe.</p>
<p>Here is my reason for smoking one pipe a day.</p>
<p>American Chemical Society. &#8220;Tobacco Chemical Protects Against Parkinson&#8217;s Disease.&#8221; ScienceDaily 29 March 2000. 1 July 2008 sciencedaily.com  <a title="Tobacco Protects against Parkinsons" href="http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2000/03/000329081250.htm" target="_blank">Article Here</a></p>
<p>Besides it is a very pretty plant!</p>
<p><img src="http://toolmakingart.battlering.com/images/Frog/Tobacco.JPG" alt="tobacco" width="480" height="721" /></p>
<p>Bob</p>
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