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	<title>Comments for Toolmaking Art</title>
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	<link>http://toolmakingart.com</link>
	<description>Timeless Tools</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 08:05:58 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Comment on Smoking Pipe by Ben L</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2009/01/29/smoking-pipe/comment-page-1/#comment-3670</link>
		<dc:creator>Ben L</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 08:05:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=781#comment-3670</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have been looking at pipe making websites for a few days now and I just came across this site of your pipe. Your pipe is going to be the inspiration for my first pipe. I am still looking for that right piece of wood to make it out of. Happy smoking.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have been looking at pipe making websites for a few days now and I just came across this site of your pipe. Your pipe is going to be the inspiration for my first pipe. I am still looking for that right piece of wood to make it out of. Happy smoking.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Wax Mix by Bob Strawn</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/08/06/wax-mix/comment-page-1/#comment-3668</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Strawn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 May 2013 16:15:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=30#comment-3668</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I am afraid that the wax mix will darken and grey over time in the outdoors.  It will not need stripping in most cases and as it soaks in more than coats the wood.  It can be scraped down easily if it has left a coating and adding more wax is easily done.   I do use this wax mix outdoors, but I only use it to gently slow the eventual results of time and weather.  So far, my milk paint experiments have held up to the weather much better than my wax experiments.  http://toolmakingart.com/2008/06/16/two-layer-milk-paint/

Bob]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am afraid that the wax mix will darken and grey over time in the outdoors.  It will not need stripping in most cases and as it soaks in more than coats the wood.  It can be scraped down easily if it has left a coating and adding more wax is easily done.   I do use this wax mix outdoors, but I only use it to gently slow the eventual results of time and weather.  So far, my milk paint experiments have held up to the weather much better than my wax experiments.  <a href="http://toolmakingart.com/2008/06/16/two-layer-milk-paint/" rel="nofollow">http://toolmakingart.com/2008/06/16/two-layer-milk-paint/</a></p>
<p>Bob</p>
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		<title>Comment on Two Layer Milk Paint by Bob Strawn</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/06/16/two-layer-milk-paint/comment-page-1/#comment-3667</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Strawn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 May 2013 15:54:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=29#comment-3667</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I use safflower oil. There are two types of oil you can get from safflower. On is from the main genetic line of the plant. It is called High Linoleic Acid safflower oil. This is the stuff I use. There is a common enough mutation grown that may be mixed in or selected that is not the same. What I do to be sure it is the right stuff, is first look on the nutritional label. If the nutritional label has Polyunsaturated fat as a much higher number than Monounsaturated fat then it is probably the right stuff. The problem is that the sources can change for seeds and crops leaving us with less data than we think we have. When I get a bottle, I open it and then soak a bit into a paper towel and put the paper towel under the bottle. The bottle is left with the cap loose where the sun can reach it. This way, the oil will transform into stand oil. After two weeks, I check the paper towel. if the oil has turned to a rubbery resin, it is the right stuff! If not, it is still good oil for treating wood, but it is not good oil for making a finish. Use it like mineral oil, but not like tung or linseed oil.

I use High Linoleic Acid safflower oil. instead of BLO for just about everything. is a superb drying oil and is used in quality oil paints. It does not tend to mildew or yellow. It dries slower, but you can instant dry it by heating it carefully over a burner. I treat wooden tools with the wax mix and quick cure the surface over a burner as well.

I keep a wax mix made with this oil handy all the time.  This link, http://toolmakingart.com/2008/08/06/wax-mix/ Will give you more specifics on how I make my wax mix.

Bob]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I use safflower oil. There are two types of oil you can get from safflower. On is from the main genetic line of the plant. It is called High Linoleic Acid safflower oil. This is the stuff I use. There is a common enough mutation grown that may be mixed in or selected that is not the same. What I do to be sure it is the right stuff, is first look on the nutritional label. If the nutritional label has Polyunsaturated fat as a much higher number than Monounsaturated fat then it is probably the right stuff. The problem is that the sources can change for seeds and crops leaving us with less data than we think we have. When I get a bottle, I open it and then soak a bit into a paper towel and put the paper towel under the bottle. The bottle is left with the cap loose where the sun can reach it. This way, the oil will transform into stand oil. After two weeks, I check the paper towel. if the oil has turned to a rubbery resin, it is the right stuff! If not, it is still good oil for treating wood, but it is not good oil for making a finish. Use it like mineral oil, but not like tung or linseed oil.</p>
<p>I use High Linoleic Acid safflower oil. instead of BLO for just about everything. is a superb drying oil and is used in quality oil paints. It does not tend to mildew or yellow. It dries slower, but you can instant dry it by heating it carefully over a burner. I treat wooden tools with the wax mix and quick cure the surface over a burner as well.</p>
<p>I keep a wax mix made with this oil handy all the time.  This link, <a href="http://toolmakingart.com/2008/08/06/wax-mix/" rel="nofollow">http://toolmakingart.com/2008/08/06/wax-mix/</a> Will give you more specifics on how I make my wax mix.</p>
<p>Bob</p>
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		<title>Comment on Two Layer Milk Paint by Dick</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2008/06/16/two-layer-milk-paint/comment-page-1/#comment-3665</link>
		<dc:creator>Dick</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 May 2013 13:52:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=29#comment-3665</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Bob
You mention adding oil several places, are you refering to linseed oil/tung oil or something else?  I assume you are not refering to a petroleum oil?
Thanks
Dick]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Bob<br />
You mention adding oil several places, are you refering to linseed oil/tung oil or something else?  I assume you are not refering to a petroleum oil?<br />
Thanks<br />
Dick</p>
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		<title>Comment on Making Tools with HSS Blanks by Bob Strawn</title>
		<link>http://toolmakingart.com/2012/04/16/making-tools-with-hss-blanks/comment-page-1/#comment-3639</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Strawn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 May 2013 01:26:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmakingart.com/?p=1598#comment-3639</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This link will give you more detail, http://toolmakingart.com/2012/04/25/hex-bit-sockets-and-what-is-possible-now/

The two tools on the left are taper-lock bit sockets.  Apart from their being rendered inoperable by magnetic filings, they are absolutely the best bit sockets made.  They will lock on any hex tool as solid as you want them.   The angled socket is to allow for a blade set into the grip to have a different angle for use.  

Bob]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This link will give you more detail, <a href="http://toolmakingart.com/2012/04/25/hex-bit-sockets-and-what-is-possible-now/" rel="nofollow">http://toolmakingart.com/2012/04/25/hex-bit-sockets-and-what-is-possible-now/</a></p>
<p>The two tools on the left are taper-lock bit sockets.  Apart from their being rendered inoperable by magnetic filings, they are absolutely the best bit sockets made.  They will lock on any hex tool as solid as you want them.   The angled socket is to allow for a blade set into the grip to have a different angle for use.  </p>
<p>Bob</p>
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