February Greens

One of the great joys of gardening is going shopping in you back yard.

I can sit on a bench and enjoy Magenta Spreen Lambs Quarter and Pac Choy fresh, clean and damp from an evening rain.

greens

More Greens

There is a bit of Swiss Chard at the back, for cooking as well.

With a pair of scissors I can harvest all the lettuce I want. This variety will grow again after cutting, so it is endless as long as it stays cool.

Lettuce

These onions divide into more onions instead of making one big onion.

Onions

More Onions

This makes them perfect for a salad.  I can pull up a clump of onions, take half of them, and spread the rest of them out.

In winter, I enjoy a lot of greens.

Bob

Big Wood Vise

Big Wood Vise is filling a nitch that has been fairly empty for a while.  They are making  wooden screws for bench vises!

Personally I like the Shaker style one the best.

Bob

A Comparison of Diamond Grit Vs Green Rouge

Derek Cohen has done a Comparison of Diamond Grit vs Green Rouge. It is great to see interest in diamond spreading, even though this review does not come out positive for diamond grit.

For some background, Derek Cohen is in my opinion one of the great woodworkers on the net.  He shares his methods and encourages others.  He does amazing work.  He is one of a small handful of influences that brought me into tool making.  His reviews are superb, his craftsmanship, breadth of knowledge and innovation set him with the very best.  I have copied more than one of his designs.  Blatantly copied.  I consider him a mentor, even though we have never met.

From my own experimentation with diamond grit for sharpening, I find I have to agree with his results, but not the experiment itself.  The problem is that he used Veritas green rouge (0.5 microns) and compared it to 0.5 micron diamond paste that he got off of eBay a few years back.   Unfair that.

I have a small collection of green rouge.  Several are quite inferior for sharpening.  The Lee Vally is my favorite.  It does a superb job, no lie.  The diamond grit however is the poor variable here.  There are a couple of different crystal structures that will give varied results, and the grading of size is always an issue.  When they say 0.5 micron, that could mean it was graded a bunch of different ways.   For example it could be graded from 0.0 to 1.0 microns.  It could also be graded  from 0.4 to 0.6 microns.   The 0 to 1.0 will give a maximum grit size of 1.0 and the0.4 to 0.6 will give a maximum grit size of 0.6  nearly half the size.  The 0 to 1.0 will be cheaper as well, so there are good odds that this comparison is literally the best of one class of grit vs the worst of another.   Additionally the physical properties of top grade grit in green rouge tends to control grit size.  More of the grit will be at about 0.5.

Despite my complaints, I think his observations are going to be the truth.  Grit size for grit size, I suspect that diamond will make for a rougher finish.  Diamonds cut, they do less pushing and scraping.  This is going to leave a difference in finish.  A smooth finish at a particular grit size will be better than a rough finish.  The advantage of green rouge is that it is fairly inexpensive, consistent and for the size of grit, reasonably fast.  It will also leave a mirror finish.   The advantage that diamond has is long wear, speed and the ability to sharpen the harder and more durable modern steels easily.

I would rather he compared best to best for stropping purposes.  If the experiment were repeated using 0.0 to 0.25 micron diamond paste, he would get a very different outcome.   I think he would find that the diamond was, despite being a finer grit, still quite a bit faster.  While it will still leave a misty finish instead of a mirror finish, it will cut quite smoothly.   I really need to send him a sample of some good diamond grit.

Bob

Way Too Many Projects

I am project greedy.  Every day I come up with yet another project I want to make.  At least one.   Then someone  like Christopher Schwarz gives you blueprints for a nifty striking knife.

Way too many projects.

Bob

Steel

Lately a good friend of mine has been tutoring me on top end steel.   My blacksmithing experience is mostly limited to mystery metal,  OFS and O1.    He has widened my eyes to the amazing world of technologically advanced steels.   There are stainless steels out there, that hold fine edges with a tenacity that is fairly amazing.  To sharpen them, I really can’t imagine using anything but diamond.

At the same time I am trying to increase my knowledge with older tool methods.   Lately I have been playing around with case hardening.  When you case harden, generally you are looking for a somewhat softer steel center, that will retain it’s fracture resistance.  The outside however you want to be really hard and durable.  This sounds to me like the description of a Japanese Tool Blade.

I decided to try some simple case hardening along with peen hardening on some O1 tool steel.

Bottoms

The process left some fairly bad pitting, on the smaller blade the pitting is  a bunch of tiny pits.

tops

The result of this experiment is some very hard to work steel.    I have not put a proper edge on them, I am still working on it.   I don’t know yet how good an edge I can put on it, but I am pretty sure that the edge I can get on it will hold up.  This steel has become really tough.

The method I used is  to heat the blades to a cherry red heat, and then dip coat the blades in Kasenit.  Then I heat soaked the blades for about an hour to properly bring in the case hardening properties.   I then cleaned them up, coated the bottoms again and treated for about five minutes.   Then I cleaned them up, heated them and quenched them in peanut oil.  After that, I cleaned them up again and then heated them up until I got a straw yellow shade (440F)  on the surface of the steel on the small one.  The larger one, I heat treated to a brownish orange (500F.)

Simple enough metallurgy and not the most careful tempering methods.   While I need to work on my methods and perhaps even grind the Kasenit a bit finer,  this method may end up giving me a fairly nice tool edge,  if I can ever manage the pitting problem.

Bob