Gardening Outside the Box

This is what my garden looks like,

Garden in the Willows

The trees are willows that I planted myself. They are almost three years old, and an important part of my garden. They are a natural shade cloth. The white flowers on the left are radish flowers. The small cedar structure is a garden shelf.
Garden Shelf

In the shelf are irrigation, pruning, and tree care materials, handy for immediate use in the garden.

Radish

These are radish flowers and seed pods. The flowers can be eaten, the seed pods can be eaten too. Oddly mild radishes seem to have hot pods, and hot radishes milder pods.

Radish

The hotness varies by weather, water and maturity, so don’t trust it entirely.

Radish

The pods while still tender are like a cross between a radish and an English pea. Quite tasty raw, if you can take the heat.

Radish

The flowers are more like a cross between, a sweet flower, broccoli and of course radish.

Radishes grow well as a companion plant with just about everything. Here is a celery plant and a radish in bloom together.

Radish and Celery in bloom
If you harvest the flowers, you get even more. Be sure to let pods mature and dry so you can plant more!

Note the pond on the other side of the radish.
Radish

Why limit a garden to being a dry set of rows? Tomatoes are even prettier with a pond behind them.

Pond

You can always look past the trees and garden and enjoy the pond.

Pond

It is even possible to garden in the weeds and grass if you pick the right plant and find the right spot. These are elephant garlic, almost too pretty to eat, almost.

Elephant Garlic

Here is another branch off the main path of the garden, where I am raising corn, squash and beans.
Corn, Squash and beans

Here is a lovely gourd flower. We are looking the other way, down the same garden row.
Gourd Flower

Bob

Pecan Wood Marking Gauge

This tool was predominately inspired by two threads, This one by jgourlay and this one about bling.

The challenge that I set to myself after the thread on bling, was to try to make a tool, that was lovely and compelling, that was composed of one wood only, no ornamentation without function, and no metal. Thats right, no brass, no steel and no bronze. Here is the result. I am fairly pleased with it, it works perfectly. All the gauges I make in the future, will probably use this locking method. I am going to make a knife for it later, so it will have steel, unless I grind a ceramic knife for it.


Here it is taken apart, this view will allow you to clearly see all the flaws.

Now for the step by step instructions.

Step 0
Turn and finish a nice dowel. The dowel needs to be finished to be sure the diameter works well. This dowel, and the rest of it, was made with pecan, the finish was applied by putting safflower oil on a napkin, and then CA glue. The CA glue was burnished and/or rubbed onto the surface. CA is not my favorite glues, but it is one of my favorite wood treatments. Go figure.

Step 1
Turn a disk and drill a hole in it. I drilled my hole a bit small and then sanded it bigger to get an exact fit.. I sanded it bigger with another slightly smaller dowel wrapped in sandpaper. Because it was taking forever, I put a slit in the dowel, Tucked the end of the sandpaper into the slit and wrapped the sandpaper around the dowel. Then I put the dowel in a chuck on my lathe, and it sanded very quickly.

Disk Diagram

Step 2
Drill a hole for the key to slide in. This hole should halfway intersect the center hole. It should go a bit past the hole so it has room to slide. It can go all the way through so that the key can toggle in and out. I liked it this way.

Keyhole

Step 3

Make a nice blank for the key. It should move fairly easily in the keyhole. I wanted a knob, but a plain end would do. A big knob allows more locking pressure for tender hands.

Key

Step 4

Remove waste from the key, to allow the dowel to slide freely when the key is in the out position. Note that the key is not pushed in all the way. Also note that the material at the end of the key, keeps it from falling out as long as the dowel is in place.

I removed the shaded area, by sanding it off with a dowel between centers with a slit for sand paper, on my lathe.

Shaded area is removed to allow the dowel to freely move.

Step 5

Remove more waste in order to allow the key to wedge the dowel into a locked position. I sanded it down with the same method I used in step 4, and tested it regularly, until I was happy with the fit and lock.

Area to remove to allow it to lock is shaded

Step 5

Clean it up, make sure it works smoothly.

Finished Key


This one is pecan. I love the look of pecan, and it is one of the strongest woods by weight. This will make a lovely tool for the workbench, but I am going to make a smaller one of mesquite for the tool box!

The changeable head is a really simple thing. I put a drill chuck on my lathe and then drilled into the blank with a bit that was about the size of what I wanted to grab. Then I turned it to a taper with a knob on the end that was smaller than the swell at the front end. I then cut a slit in the big end, so that compression would grip the pencil lead. With just a touch of modification, this would hold a knife that could be rotated and locked in at any angle. The knife could be set into the tapered handle permanently, and could then be used as a marking knife separately or with the cutting gauge.

I turned another just like it, between centers, without the drill bit inserted. I left extra length on it at the large end, and left the knob end off, for a sanding fid. I put a slit in the small end of it, so I could put the end of a small section of sandpaper and wrap it around the fid. This way I could sand out the hole the pencil holder would set in, and make a snug fit. I chucked the fid on the lathe and that allowed me to sand the hole to fit in less than a minute. The hole is a bit larger at the small end, so that wedging in the pencil holder will squeeze tighter at the big end.

Bob

Adjustable T Sliding Bevel Square Angle Gage

I say tomato. This tool has way too many names.

Anyway my favorite is the Veritas Sliding Bevel

But since they don’t sell the parts or make the kit, until I figure out the mechanics, I have been using one I made from the WoodSmith Kit . I like it a lot, but the wing nut really gets in the way sometimes.

So I saw a Universal Angle Square (ha, still another name for the same tool.) at Harbor Freight. The black plastic handle was hideous, but Empire put what looks like good stainless steel into the construction of it. No link to the item this time, because I could not find it in a search. Go figure it only has upwards of 40 thousand possible names.
I used their hardware, and a hunk of wood to make this guy.



Yes, it is Mesquite, and it works great. It goes in the keeper tool box for sure.

Bob

Old formulas are not always the best.

I love to mix my own paint from scratch. Especially from old traditional recipes. It is interesting what you can come up with.

Here is a link to the project Gutenberg publication of The Ordnance Instructions for the United States Navy. This is the 1866 fourth edition.

In it are recipes for all sorts of neat stuff.

For example:
Japan varnish.

Litharge 4 lbs. (a lead oxide crystal)
Boiled oil 87 lbs.
Spirits turpentine 2 lbs.
Red-lead 6 lbs. (lead tetroxide)
Umber 1 lb. (Iron bearing Clay}
Gum-shellac 8 lbs.
Sugar-of-lead 2 lbs. (lead acetate)
White vitriol 1 lb. (hydrated zinc sulphate)

Wow, three types of lead. To make it worse, the recipe for the BLO already had lead in it!

Boiled oil.

Raw linseed 103. lbs.
Copperas 3.15 lbs. (A Ferrous sulphate crystal)
Litharge 6.3 lbs. (Lead Oxide)

Going through the recipe list it becomes amazing that some ships crews didn’t go mad.

Here is the recipe for a wood preservative that I may try making, then again this is the only recipe that they warn you is dangerous to make!

PLANTOU’S COMPOSITION FOR COATING IRON OR WOOD AS A PRESERVATIVE.

First composition.

Pulverized rosin 3 lbs.
Pulverized shellac 2 oz.
Pulverized charcoal, or cannel-coal 1 lb.
Spirits turpentine 1 oz.

Second composition.

Pulverized rosin 3 lbs.
Beeswax 4 oz.
Pulverized charcoal, or cannel-coal 1 lb.
Spirits turpentine 1 oz.

The first two articles are to be dissolved in an iron vessel over the fire; the charcoal is then added, and briskly stirred until the whole is well intermixed; after which the turpentine is added, and stirred until it is well incorporated with the other ingredients. It is not safely made on board ship.The composition is to be applied when hot, with a brush or spatula, and smoothed over with a hot iron. The wood, or iron should be perfectly dry, and freed from rust or other loose substances.

Back to the dangers of old formulations, some quite beloved metal workers on the blacksmith pages I frequent, have died from metal exposure. Heating zinc is fairly dangerous. You can actually read the pages where an active member who posted, tutored and visited others had time to say good by and warn folk to the dangers as he started to die. Metal fever is rough, and lead is far from safe.

On the lead subject, here is why I fear it.

When I started out as a technician, tubes were still common, and the old timers would hold lead soldier in their mouths while they soldiered. There were a few that hated the taste of lead, and the difference in their lives was pretty obvious.

The old habitual lead chewers were still brilliant technicians, but they literally were not going to be able to learn and adapt to digital electronics. It was amazing, folk that could read a squiggle on an O scope, and trim a inductor to perfectly adjust phase angle could not deal with inserting logic pulses to test circuits.

Brilliant techs that could pull out a slide rule and tell you just what the values were needed to make an L or T pad work or any number of other calculation that they could do without looking up the formula, could not deal with ones and zeros. As a technician who came in on the cusp and had to do both, I can honestly tell you that they knew and understood classic analog circuitry in way that I am not sure I could ever learn to. But the easy, new stuff, they could not learn.

These folk were probably on the extreme end of lead absorption. What I got to see was the people who over years had soldiered with their head down near the fumes with a length of lead wound and clamped in their teeth. Another quality that they shared was a level of cranky that would hardly be considered acceptable in modern society. The technicians that did not suck lead, where a bit easier to get along with.

I use silver based soldier now, but I am not sure this is ideal. It is much safer when you are done, but while heating it, I wonder. There are several silver compound that are horribly toxic and can easily pass through the blood-brain barrier. So it is entirely possible that our methods of dealing with a toxin are as bad or worse. Such is the human condition.

There is pretty strong evidence that even low levels of lead affect learning. There is also a strong link to low levels of lead exposure increasing the odds of birth defects. Truth is a lot of us are probably quite damaged and not living up to our full potential. Sadly, that is life.

Cumulative toxins are interesting beasts, I could have been horribly poisoned 20 years ago, but it was the tiny dose I got last week that push me over the edge. This allows a person to say, “It never hurt me none!” up until the day they are silenced by the cumulative dosage.

Wouldn’t it be ironic if the black and white, slippery slope, all or none sort of thinking that has been applied to issues such as lead exposure, is caused by lead exposure? If the folk that make these decisions have had too much exposure to heavy metals. That would explain a lot.

I just think, that if there are substitutes that work well, it is a type of crazy to not use the substitute. If the cost difference includes infant mortality, then I am happy to wait a bit longer for the paint to dry.

If I make something for someone else, I am for damn sure, going to make sure, to the best of my ability and knowledge, it won’t cause problems further down the line.

Knives are dangerous, but I am still willing to give someone a knife. I won’t give then a knife that has slow cumulative poison hidden in the grip. I will use brass that has lead in it to make tools on occasion, I won’t use leaded brass on a part that you are in constant contact with as your sweat and wipe your brow.

Due my own exposure to lead, I took sodium alginate for several years to try and reduce the levels. These days, I give blood regularly. This may be a good deed, but it also reduces heavy metal build up. I hope that the transfusion from me doesn’t cause the recipient more harm than good.

Wilbur Pan, M.D., Ph.D., a pediatrician allowed me to quote him here:

I can put some numbers on the hazards of lead exposure. It’s not so much for the worker, but for children that they may come into contact with the lead particles that are carried out from the workplace.

In my day job I’m a pediatrician, and so lead toxicity is something I’m very familiar with. At lead levels of 10 micrograms/dL, a 5 year old will start losing IQ points. Doing the calculations for a typical 5 year old’s weight and figuring out the blood volume, that’s only 144 micrograms, or 5 millionths of an ounce of lead that kid has to swallow before his IQ starts to take a hit. Each 5 millionths of an ounce of lead will knock off about 5 IQ points.

This is an additive effect: every additional 5 millionths of an ounce of lead will knock off an additional 5 IQ points. So saying that you’re not going to worry about the additional small level of lead that you may be exposed to doesn’t make sense. It would have to be an incredibly small amount of lead to come in under that 144 microgram level. And again, this is an additive effect. Even if you only brought home 50 micrograms of lead dust on your clothes from a session at the gun range, after three trips, you’ve hit that 144 microgram level.

Other things associated with lead exposure: hyperactivity, failure to graduate high school, reading disability, delinquency, and hearing deficits. After 360 micrograms of lead ingestion in that 5 year old kid, anemia starts to kick in.

The usual exposure source for lead for kids is lead paint. But as the old housing stock either gets torn down for new construction, or increased awareness of lead paint has kicked in and more people are painting over or decontaminating their old houses, it seems that these days if kids are going to pick up lead, it’s from contaminated dirt. That would include dirt contaminated with lead particles carried away from the workplace, or a gun range.

So while I am fascinated by old recipes, there are a lot of them I will never try.
Bob

A Chamfer Plane

Way back in June of 07, while I was recovering from a bought of failed tool designs, Derek Cohen posted a few pictures of a chamfer plane he had made. I needed one just like it, so I threw one together.

Chamfer Plane

Chamfer Plane

It is not as quick and easy to make as a Krenov, but it still comes together pretty easily.

The bottom is a v – groove. This goes on the edge of the board that you want a chamfer on. Because it is low angle, it does a nice smooth cut even on end grain. You don’t want to use it against the grain as it will grab and rip out a chunk of wood and then stop dead.

You start with the blade projecting about a 16th of and inch down into the groove. it only takes a couple of passes, then you increment it about a 16th of an inch more,

When you get close, the last two increments are about a 32nd and a 64th, just for smoothness.

Bob