Froe Mallet

Here is a photo of the Froe Mallet I made.

Even though I have never used one, or used a froe, the motive for the design is obvious. A rough surface will absorb some of the womp, so you want a smooth hard wood surface. But you are going to be pounding on a 1/4″ blade back. This is going to ruin your mallet face quickly. So the mallet is nice and big with a lot of surface area. This way I can pound it a bunch of times before putting it back on the lathe to clean the face.

The carpenters pencils are freshly sharpened to show how freaking big it is. The pencil shavings are there because it is of course not real without shavings.

Here is a gratuitous shot of the mallet with a scraper shave I made. It is nice and rustic so it fits right in with the mallet.

Sorry, the image is a bit poor, I am experimenting with the night photo option on my camera.

Bob

Building A Chicken Coop

When discussing hand tools, often the questions that power tool users ask, are about the relative speed and accuracy. If you want to go exclusively to hand tool use, what do you lose? I am used to using a power drill/screwdriver, and a circular saw for a lot of my outdoors, get it done, work. Every so often I try to mix it up though. Since the love of my life was going to be out of town and I needed to build a chicken coop, this was a perfect opportunity. The circular saw is perhaps the third most dangerous tool we use, I decided not to use it, instead I would use a handsaw.

For those who are interested the most dangerous tool is a chain saw. Arteries and deep leg cuts are bad. The second most dangerous is the table saw. Fingers, hands and eyes tend toward danger here. The third most dangerous is the spinning blade of the circular saw. With my wife missing, I was not going to use any of those tools for safety sake and her peace of mind. Not that I am much tempted to use the chainsaw to make a chicken coop.

As far as speed goes, when making single cuts, on cedar picket, with a Razor Saw 650, the hand saw was about the same speed as the circular saw.

When cutting a 4×4 the hand saw won, hands down. It can make the cut precisely with a single pass. The circular saw is dependent on having two parallel sides, in addition to clear markings. The circular saw requires two passes.

When making cuts on already assembled structures, the handsaw also won hands down. When cutting to a precise line, and stopping, the hand saw was able to do what the circular saw could not. The handsaw also left much cleaner edges than the circular saw would have.

Small shapes are not a good option with the circular saw. The circular saw requires more setup and setup time. Angled cuts require a wedge to hold the blade guard back. Care must be taken to be sure you are not going to trip or cut the cord. The cord must be run and taken up at the end of the job.

When cutting three or four boards at a time, or cutting angles, the circular saw would have been faster. Some of the wood I cut was a touch damp, the circular saw would have been a lot less work. Both saws require a good square, pencil and marking knife to do a good job. The hand saw leaves a cleaner cut. All in all, since a lot of cuts are repetitive, the circular saw would have made my work faster.

Given speed of work as a major requirement, both saws are needed. If I could only have one, the more agile and flexible choice is the hand saw. The hand saw also has the advantage of not needing power. While I was sawing our local deer came nearby and looked at me for a while while as she was browsing for acorns. This probably wouldn’t have happened if I was using the powered circular saw.

Bob

Woodworking Apron

An apron can be a wonderful part of a tool set. It can organize your most used tools and your small but regularly used tools. If well made, it can have a smoking good line to it, not quite formal, but classic. There is a lot of room for expression with an apron. It can also protect your clothing from the odd mess up.

I have several aprons I use, a rather serious bright yellow plasticized lab apron that I use mostly when dealing with milk paint. The stuff can be quite dangerous. I have a leather apron I use when blacksmithing and a cotton one I use with the BBQ.

When doing carpentry work, I am used to using a tool pouch, it is amazing how much faster I can work with this on. I have used the light nail pouch/apron on a hot day when running through a ton of nails or screws, but in general I like the tool pouch. But for fine carpentry my needs are different. I can live with the heavy duty carpentry tools falling out a few times a week when I am doing carpentry. I can live with scraping my claw hammer against the rail as I work on a deck. However, these are not options when doing fine woodworking.

If I am going to keep a precision square, a fine marking gauge, a nice block plane and a few fine chisels and knives on me, I don’t want them slipping out when I am working. A tool pouch is all about quick convenience, an apron needs to be a bit more secure, Deeper pockets with folds to keep sawdust out help. They can still be fast and convenient, but protecting the tools does not need to be the corner that is cut.

An apron can be an important part of a tool box. A few tools are secured in the apron, and the apron can wrap other objects so they don’t rattle in the tool box when transporting them. The real problem is deciding how far to go with the apron. Do I want the ‘Road Warrior’ look, with all the tools carried like armor and weapons ready for instant use? Actually yes, but I don’t think it is a good idea. More of a cool costume than a functional part of your tool set. The question is what core items are so important that I absolutely must carry them on me? This is taking the Vagabonds Toolbox one step further.

For marking, a couple of pencils. If I also do business while wood working, a pen is nice. If I also work metal, a scribe is needed and a marking knife or two are perhaps the most important of all, if you are doing fine work.

For cutting, a click knife, utility knife or folding knife is always handy. I have to keep an extra knife on me, or the temptation to use my good marking knife on a box or package may overcome me. I really don’t want to put a nick in it, but it opens boxes so well… I tend to use scissors, so a quality set of those is an important tool for me. A lot of other woodworkers would never include scissors in their kit.

For layout, a square or two, a small marking gauge, and a rule are quite important. Some days a dovetail gauge and a bevel gauge are required. Dividers, calipers and the like also come to mind.

A wooden mallet is good to have if you use wooden planes or chisels much, and a few chisels including the skew chisels for cleanup. A flush cut plane is one tool I should have added to the Vagabonds Toolbox, I use it as much as I do a low angle block plane. A folding rule, tape measure, the list goes on and on.

I am sure I have left out a bunch of constantly needed tools, and already I will either have a dangerously cluttered pocket or two filled with sharp edges, or will look like Geppetto the Road Warrior. Just the apron to wear after TEOTWAKI, but not a real convenience. Perhaps a few pockets, sleeves and loops that will do for these tools, but for the most part I leave them as part of the tool box. A pencil, ruler and scribe and marking knife may be the only permanent additions.

But I suspect the apron will collect tools as the day goes on.

Bob

The Vagabond's Tool Box

Here is my current travel tool box;

Open Tool Box

I love the thing, Woodworking ONLINE even did a write up on it. Sadly it does not do quite what I want it to do.

It holds, protects and organizes tools. It is easy enough to carry and open, and it is rugged. Here is my son, Nathaniel, carrying it;

Tool Box carried

Best yet everything in it, except the folding ruler, I made myself. The Yankee Style Screwdriver barely counts since I just put another handle on it, but I will take my victories where I can get them. 😉

Tools in Box

The problems with the tool box are not obvious, unless you use it. With a few canvas tool rolls filled with files, the stuff does not rattle and wear, so the obvious issue really isn’t such an issue. The real problem it that it is not a convenient tool rack. It takes up a large section of table or floor space when open, and you have to reach quite a bit to get at some of the tools. This is not as good a design as it could be.

If I split up the three folding sections, putting one on one side and the other two on the other then it would almost balance on one end. This would reduce the foot print to something reasonable, make the tools more visible and make the tools easier to reach. Also every tool need to be held in place and able to sit on end. Even the big ones in the center body.

I may have to put a foot on the double flap side to make it stable standing, but that can be incorporated into the tool holding and be made to add grace to the entire structure. Well made fittings look cool.

So here is the difficult part, deciding what tools belong.

My current quest is to design the ideal vagabonds tool box and set.

I think the set of tools in the box is important, since it defines the size and shape needed. So this is every bit as much about the set of tools as it is the box. So here is the concept, If you were going to travel, by foot, bicycle, boat, train, plane and automobile, and you were going to be ready to do quality but perhaps basic woodworking, what set of tools and what sort of enclosure would you use? I am thinking of the minimum quality set for missionary work. The show off and use set for taking to a week long woodworking class or gathering of woodworkers, The tool set for carrying as a migrant woodworker, or for doing a touch of woodwork while you sail. The vagabond’s tool set should be a minimalist set that allows productive work. Imagine that you are having to refugee or you have gotten old and your children are checking you into an assisted living home. What tools must you have to do decent woodwork? The band saw, table saw, circular saw, are all out. What tools do you want with you when they strand you on an Island?

This time I am departing a bit from my almost entirely self built tool set, but I and envisioning being able to make some improvised tools as I need them. I want a set that will allow me to make a decent set of tools.

Here is my list:

Royoba, RazorSaw 650

Royoba, RazorSaw 651

Chisel, 1/16″

Chisel, 1/8″

Chisel, 3/16″

Chisel, 1/4″

Chisel, 3/8″

Chisel, 1/2″

Chisel, 3/4″

Chisel, 1″

Chisel, 1.5″

Chisel, 2″

Chisel, Swan, 1/4″

Chisel, Mortise, 1/4″

Chisel, cranked neck, 1/4″

Skew Chisel pair

Chip Cutting Knives set of 3

Scrapper Set

Burnishing tool

Low angle block plane

Jack Plane

Smoothing Plane

Rabbet Plane

Small Router Plane with fence, and square side for referencing to a guide

Adjustable square

bevel gauge

2 marking knifes

marking gauge

2 rulers/winding sticks

Yankee Style screwdriver/drill

Folding rule

Tape measure

Sharpening Kit

Strop

Hammer

Mallet

Pincher

Punch

Pencil

Screwdriver with quick release hex bits

Mini Archimedean drill

Brace and Bits

2 clamps

Ball of stout string

Wax/Oil and a rag or two for preserving tools.

After I lay all this out, I may find it is to heavy to carry comfortably. Remember, I want to be able to take this on a bicycle. The smaller a functioning set can be, the lighter and cleaner. So I want every tool I will need, but no more.
One of the real goals to this exercise is to define what a good starter kit is.

Here are a few examples of other folks tool sets,

Ulima would add a jointer plane, scrub plane, file, rasp sanding block and a few other things. Their list looks great, but traveling on foot with it seems a bit much.

Ryohei put together a nice Japanese starter set, and would keep it simpler than my original list.

Chris Black at Highland Woodworking has several wonderful sets with great data and descriptions, but they look hard enough to carry up stairs, let alone travel with.

Yeung Chan’s tool case can be seen if you go to his gallery and select the first picture. This is the tool set that really started my desire to make tools. I saw his tool set as useful art.

A tool set can be a medium of expression that is itself a work of art.

Bob

Starting Out Strange

I took a couple of things said by a few folk out of context, and realized that one of the reasons I like hand tools is that they will still be functional after teotwawki.

The teotwawaki issue is not just for extremes. Sometimes you are away from power. After a bad storm you may need to cover a broken window, with the power still out. Don’t get me wrong, I love my lithium One Plus Ryobi Screwdriver. It is not, however, what you want in an emergency box. It may be discharged by time, and will become discharged and useless after a while. In a rolling blackout, it may not be as useful. In a flood, most of my hand tools should be dried out, but they will still work wet. Not so my power tools. They will have to be carefully cleaned and dried, and still may not work.

If we put on the foil hats, (not advised, they are hot, don’t breath well, and give you the worst hat hair ever :roll: :shock: ) and explore the extreme end of teotwawki, there are even more issues at stake. Even if you have a boat with solar cells and a generator, an emf burst can keep you from using your power tools to repair your gun and fight off the zombie hoards created by the alien invaders.

Good teotwawki tools, I think are timeless. They have a good chance of becoming antiques or may already be antiques. Time itself will regularly cause the end of the world as we know it. You may have not noticed it, but you live in a different world than the one you were born in. My dad lived before TV and plastic, I lived before personal computers. Most of us have lived before cell phones. The world changes and many must have tools of a generation before, reach unpredicted obsolescence.

I suspect that part of the appeal of a old tool is it’s timeless dependability.

Bob