unpluggedshop.com is a Favorite Site of Mine!

Luke Townsley has done the brilliant work of creating an aggregation of recent articles.   I had not even thought of this concept, apart from my RSS feed collection, but he kindly emailed me and let me know that Toolmaking Art has been added.  What a delightful surprise.

I looked over his site,  http://www.unpluggedshop.com/ and found that I was not only overjoyed at being added to such a fine site, but was doubly pleased to have a new site that gives so much utility.

There are a lot of great sites out there that update once a month or so.   So they get forgotten about and you loose track of them.  Sad really.   An aggregator like this gives you a wide range of great sites at one site.

I am fairly proud to be listed amongst so much good work.

Bob

Another Bad Idea

Less bad than the loose grit on the table, but still a poor one.

I figured the spit in the table would be perfect for sawing.

I had to move it a bit further out,

The cut was however way off.   The angle did not help my acuracy one bit.

After sawing flat, my cuts went back to normal.

Bob

Cedar Worktable Material Testing

It rained for a week and my table got nice and wet.

The wax has done a good job of protecting the table, but when I move the clamp over you can see the rust caused by steel on cedar.

This happened through wax, so moisture, cedar and steel don’t mix.

The stainless steel ruler was fine however!

Bob

Loose Grit is not always the best choice.

Here is a bad knot I decided to try grinding with loose 80 grit aluminum oxide.

I used a rough metal plate to rub and roll the grit.

It cleaned the metal plate better than it did the wood.

It did a good enough job, so I cleaned it up.  Not the best method, but it worked.

A bit dingy.  I should have scraped it clean, but I decide to use a finer grit to polish it.

This is 0.05 micron linde b aluminum oxide grit.  It sunk into the wood and polished the metal plate slowly.  It made a mess and did nothing for the wood.

So I use a scraper on it.

this fine dust embedded in soft wood is perfect for removing the bur from a scraper.  This made scraping it a real chore.  No use doing anything else, sand paper would spread it and drive it into courser cracks.  A plane would dull instantly.  So I tuned a scraper and then dulled it.  Over and over again.  This was a real pain to clean up.

Bob

Japanese Smoothing Plane, Part 2

Silly in a way to show a Japanese Plane that is not a smoothing plane in a smoothing plane article.

The shaving is uneven on the left side.  This means the blade projects more out of the bottom on the right side than the left.  For most work, this would need to be fixed.

Here the plane is flipped around, so the opposite side of the plane blade from the thin shaving side is being tapped.  This is how you can make large adjustments in blade position.  This swivels the blade, so the side  that was projecting more will be projecting less after adjustment.

You can also tap straight on, but on one side to try and even it out.  This is more subtle, but extends the blade.

Here is how you would tap to extend the blade and make a deeper cut.

With a bit of adjustment, the shaving is a bit more even.

In the picture above, you may be able to see why this is not set up to be a smoothing plane.  It has fairly square track edges at the sides where it planed.  A smoothing plane should have a cambered edge.  A cambered edge would be more of a smile shape than a straight line.  This leaves a transition at the edge that is smoother and less noticeable.  Since a well adjusted smoother is cutting with a depth of about a thousandth of an inch, the variation is not noticeable, and the result is a clean, smooth surface.

This plane, while not being a smoother, should probably have a bit more of a camber, but just at the edges.   You can see the edge tracks on the right in front of the plane

So while this is not a smoothing plane, it does have it’s place, what it does is quickly bring things down and cleans things up to where I can use a smoothing plane.

With straight grain that is in line, it is easy as can be to make a nice surface to then smooth with a smoothing plane.

Here is  the smoothing plane and what the smoothing plane does,

This is the same end of the board, I had to drill some holes for securing another project.

To fully explain the smoothing plane, I will also show a few other methods.

A scraper is not as fast, Here is a scraper and what a scraper does,

This is no where near as fast as a smoother, but a scraper is easy to use inexpensive and quite reliable.

A well tuned scraper can take lovely curls of wood off and can do as fine a job as a smoother can.  It takes a lot longer to do it, and a lot more work.

Sanding can also work well enough, not as  nice as a scraper or smoother, but for some things it is a decent  method.

Here is a horrible knot, hard and dense with grain leading up all around it.  Sanding does this,

Not as fast or as nice as scraping or smoothing.   Take real work.

Below is a comparison of about a minute of sanding, scraping and smoothing;

The pile on the left was scraped.  The pile in the middle and on the sandpaper was sanded. The pile on the right was planed.    From the wood removed it is easy to see what works the fastest.  For my money, I will use the scraper around knots and the plane on smooth grain.

The two sides of the table give me  a before and after picture,

Bob